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Kathy Peiss collection of research material on beauty culture, feminism, and women in the workforce

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Held at: University of Pennsylvania: Kislak Center for Special Collections, Rare Books and Manuscripts [Contact Us] 3420 Walnut Street, 6th Floor (Monday-Friday, 10 am to 4:30 pm), Philadelphia, PA 19104-6206

This is a finding aid. It is a description of archival material held at the University of Pennsylvania: Kislak Center for Special Collections, Rare Books and Manuscripts. Unless otherwise noted, the materials described below are physically available in their reading room, and not digitally available through the web.

Overview and metadata sections

Kathy Peiss (1953- ) is the Roy F. and Jeannette P. Nichols Professor Emerita of American History at the University of Pennsylvania. She received a B.A. from Carleton College in 1975 and Ph.D. from Brown University in 1982, both in American Studies. She taught in the Labor Studies Program, Livingston College, Rutgers University (1980-81); the American Studies Department, University of Maryland Baltimore County (1981-1986); History and Women's Studies, University of Massachusetts Amherst (1986-2001); and the History Department, University of Pennsylvania (2001-2022). At Penn, she was affiliated with the Gender, Sexuality and Women's Studies Program, the History and Sociology of Science graduate group, and Cinema Studies.

Peiss's earliest work was in the new fields of U.S. women's history and the history of sexuality. She practiced "history from the bottom up," with a particular interest in the way commerce and culture shaped the everyday lives and popular beliefs of Americans across time. Her research explored the history of working women; working-class and interracial sexuality; leisure, style, and popular culture; and the beauty industry in the U.S. and abroad. She is the author of Cheap Amusements: Working Women and Leisure in Turn-of-the-Century New York (1986); Hope in a Jar: The Making of America's Beauty Culture (1998); and Zoot Suit: The Enigmatic Career of an Extreme Style (2011). Other publications include Passion and Power: Sexuality in History, co-edited with Christina Simmons (1989); Men and Women: A History of Gender, Costume, and Power, co-authored with Barbara Clark Smith in conjunction with a Smithsonian Institution exhibit (1989); Love Across the Color Line: The Letters of Alice Hanley to Channing Lewis, co-edited with Helen Horowitz (1996); and Major Problems in the History of American Sexuality (2001). She has served as a consultant to museums, archives, and public history projects, and appeared in the documentary films New York, Miss America, and The Powder and the Glory.

This collection includes materials on her cosmetics and beauty culture research. Peiss was active in the development of women's studies in the 1980s and 1990s and taught courses on historical and contemporary feminist topics, reflected in the collection materials on 2nd wave feminism.

At Penn, Peiss taught courses on modern American cultural history and the history of women, gender, and sexuality. She developed a research interest in print culture and cultural policy during World War II, and wrote Information Hunters: When Librarians, Soldiers, and Spies Banded Together in World War II Europe (2020).

Sources: Penn Arts and Sciences, Department of History

Wikipedia

This collection primarily contains published material and is arranged in 5 series. Series I-III contains material arranged by topic and series IV-V is arranged by format, magazines and books. It includes magazines, pamphlets, booklets, bibliographies, newsletters, brochures, trade cards, advertisements, music, books and ephemera related to Peiss' research on cosmetics and beauty culture, working women and 2nd wave feminism. Peiss was active in the development of women's studies in the 1980's and 1990s and taught courses on historical and contemporary feminist topics. Some of the labor history material relates to the U.S. Women's History, 1865 to present, HIST 346, course she taught at Penn.

Gift of Kathy Peiss, 2023.

Publisher
University of Pennsylvania: Kislak Center for Special Collections, Rare Books and Manuscripts
Finding Aid Author
Kristine McGee
Finding Aid Date
2025 February 26
Access Restrictions

This collection is open for research use.

Use Restrictions

Copyright restrictions may exist. For most library holdings, the Trustees of the University of Pennsylvania do not hold copyright. It is the responsibility of the requester to seek permission from the holder of the copyright to reproduce material from the Kislak Center for Special Collections, Rare Books and Manuscripts.

Collection Inventory

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Cocoroft, Susanna: beauty culture, 1912, 1921.
Box 1 Folder 1
Cosmetic manufacturers: ads, brochures, pamphlets, etc., 1916-1965.
Box 1 Folder 2
Cosmetic manufacturers: ads, brochures, pamphlets, etc., 1978-1988.
Box 1 Folder 3
Cosmetic manufacturers: ads, brochures, pamphlets, etc., 1990s.
Box 1 Folder 4
Cosmetic manufacturers: The Body Shop pamphlets, 1988.
Box 1 Folder 5
Cosmetic manufacturers: Clinique ads, 1987-1990s.
Box 1 Folder 6
Cosmetic manufacturers: Philosophy: the new age of beauty brochure, 1997.
Box 1 Folder 7
Cosmetics: postcards, 1921, 1939.
Box 1 Folder 8
Cosmetics: trade cards, ads, label, circa 1860-1887.
Box 1 Folder 9
Fashion: Acetate: the beauty fiber, 1952.
Box 1 Folder 10
Fashion: Elizabeth Hawes lecture leaflet, circa 1943.
Box 1 Folder 11
Riddle of the Zoot: sheet music, 1941-1943.
Box 1 Folder 12
Weisbrot, Marcia: Looking at Makeup, 2001.
Box 1 Folder 13

Abortion politics: newsletters, 1981-2003.
Box 1 Folder 14
Barter, Judith and Mochon, Anne: Rules of the Game: Culture Defining Gender, 1986.
Box 1 Folder 15
Berkshire Conference on the History of Women, 1976-1987.
Box 1 Folder 16
Birth control: Estrostep ad, undated.
Box 1 Folder 17
Calyx, 1982-1983.
Box 1 Folder 18
Cultural Correspondence, 1976-1979.
Box 1 Folder 19
Ehrenreich, Barbara and English, Deirdre: Complaints and Disorders, 1973.
Box 1 Folder 20
Elysian Fields, Booksellers: Gay literature catalog no. 26, undated.
Box 1 Folder 21
Feminism 1980s, 1982-1985.
Box 1 Folder 22
Frontiers: A Journal of Women's Studies, 1979-1981.
Box 1 Folder 23
Gordon, Linda and Hunter, Allen: Sex, Family and the New Right, 1978.
Box 1 Folder 24
Guerrilla Girls: publications, 1998-2003.
Box 1 Folder 25
Heresies, 1977-1978.
Box 1 Folder 26
Kaufman, Gloria and Blakely, Mary Kay: Pulling Our Own Strings, 1980.
Box 1 Folder 27
The New Women's Survival Sourcebook, 1975.
Box 1 Folder 28
Religious broadcasting 1980s, 1981-1982.
Box 1 Folder 29
2nd wave feminism, 1966-1983.
Box 1 Folder 30
Sensation: The New Tabloid Magazine, 1939.
Box 1 Folder 31
Women's Action Alliance, Inc.: Radio and Television Commercial Monitoring Project summary report, 1980.
Box 1 Folder 32
Women and Literature: An Annotated Bibliography of Women Writers, 1973.
Box 1 Folder 33
Women's history: publications, 1972-1981.
Box 1 Folder 34

AFL-CIO: publications, 1968-1979.
Box 2 Folder 1
Baron, Harold M.: The Demand for Black Labor, 1971.
Box 2 Folder 2
Boston Nurses Group: The False Promise: Professionalism in Nursing, circa 1973.
Box 2 Folder 3
Coalition of Labor Union Women 1980s, 1979-1980.
Box 2 Folder 4
Cornell University Institute on Women and Work, undated.
Box 2 Folder 5
DeLeon, Daniel: Socialist Reconstruction of Society, 1968.
Box 2 Folder 6
A Guide to Working Class History, circa 1980.
Box 2 Folder 7
Hollander, Patricia A.; Young, D. Parker; Gehring, Donald D.: A Practical Guide to Legal Issues Affecting College Teachers, 1985.
Box 2 Folder 8
Inequality: publications, 1973-1983.
Box 2 Folder 9
Long, Priscilla: Mother Jones, Woman Organizer, 1976.
Box 2 Folder 10
Naison, Mark: Rent Strikes in New York, after 1967.
Box 2 Folder 11
Pay equity: publications, 1979-1983.
Box 2 Folder 12
Pregnancy and childcare: publications, 1979.
Box 2 Folder 13
A Radical American Pamphlets, circa 1973.
Box 2 Folder 14
San Francisco Women' History Group: What Have Women Done?, circa 1975.
Box 2 Folder 15
Sexual harassment: publications, 1978-1982.
Box 2 Folder 16
Tippett, Tom: When Southern Labor Stirs, parts I-IV, 1972.
Box 2 Folder 17
Union for Radical Political Economics: Reading Lists in Radical Political Economics, 1977.
Box 2 Folder 18
Union W.A.G.E. (Women's Alliance to Gain Equality): letter, handbook and pamphlets, 1975-1980.
Box 2 Folder 19
U.S. Department of Labor: publications, 1978-1980.
Box 2 Folder 20
The Women' Work Project: publications, 1978.
Box 2 Folder 21
Working women: publications, 1979-1980.
Box 2 Folder 22
Zaretsky, Eli: Capitalism, the Family and Personal Life, circa 1986.
Box 2 Folder 23

The American Home, 1934 March; 1935 October; 1937 December; 1939 September.
Box 2 Folder 24
The American Home, 1941 October; 1942 May-June.
Box 2 Folder 25
Better Homes and Gardens, 1927 July, August, October; 1928 January, February.
Box 2 Folder 26
Better Homes and Gardens, 1930 March, May, September.
Box 2 Folder 27
Better Homes and Gardens, 1931 February, May, June.
Box 2 Folder 28
Better Homes and Gardens, 1931 July, September.
Box 2 Folder 29
Better Homes and Gardens, 1932 August; 1933 April.
Box 2 Folder 30
The Country Home, 1931 March; 1932 January, February.
Box 2 Folder 31
Family Circle, 1951 March.
Box 2 Folder 32
Good Housekeeping, 1925 December.
Box 2 Folder 33
The Farmer's Wife, 1935 October, November; 1936 January, May.
Box 4 Folder 1
Ladies' Home Journal, 1940 February, March, August, September, December.
Box 4 Folder 2
Ladies' Home Journal, 1941 February, May, July, September, November.
Box 4 Folder 3
Ladies' Home Journal, 1942 January-March, August, October.
Box 5 Folder 1
Ladies' Home Journal, 1943 January-March.
Box 5 Folder 2
Ladies' Home Journal, 1943 May, June, August, December.
Box 5 Folder 3
Ladies' Home Journal, 1944 January-May.
Box 6 Folder 1
Ladies' Home Journal, 1944 July, August, October-December.
Box 6 Folder 2
Ladies' Home Journal, 1945 January-March, May, June.
Box 6 Folder 3
Ladies' Home Journal, 1945 August, September, December.
Box 7 Folder 1
Ladies' Home Journal, 1946 January-April.
Box 7 Folder 2
Ladies' Home Journal, 1946 May-August.
Box 7 Folder 3
Ladies' Home Journal, 1946 September-December.
Box 8 Folder 1
Ladies' Home Journal, 1947 February-April.
Box 8 Folder 2
Ladies' Home Journal, 1947 August, December.
Box 8 Folder 3
Ladies' Home Journal, 1948 August, 1949 January, March.
Box 9 Folder 1
Ladies' Home Journal, 1949 May, July, August, December.
Box 9 Folder 2
Ladies' Home Journal, 1950 February, June, August, December.
Box 9 Folder 3
Ladies' Home Journal, 1951 January, February, June.
Box 10 Folder 1
Ladies' Home Journal, 1951 July, August, November, December.
Box 10 Folder 2
Ladies' Home Journal, 1952 January-March, May, June.
Box 10 Folder 3
Ladies' Home Journal, 1952 August, September, November, December.
Box 11 Folder 1
Ladies' Home Journal, 1953 February, March, July, August, December.
Box 11 Folder 2
Ladies' Home Journal, 1954 March, October; 1955 February.
Box 11 Folder 3
Ladies' Home Journal, 1956 January, July, October, December.
Box 12 Folder 1
Ladies' Home Journal, May, July, August, December.
Box 12 Folder 2
Ladies' Home Journal, 1958 January, March, July, August, October, December.
Box 12 Folder 3
Ladies' Home Journal, 1959 January, February, April.
Box 13 Folder 1
Ladies' Home Journal, 1959 June-August, December.
Box 13 Folder 2
Ladies' Home Journal, 1960 January-February.
Box 13 Folder 3
McCall's, including an Armand Beauty Aids ad, 1925, 1960 January-April.
Box 13 Folder 4
Successful Farming, 1935 July, August.
Box 3 Folder 1
The Survey, 1950 February, April.
Box 3 Folder 2
Survey Graphic, 1939 February, March, May, June.
Box 3 Folder 3
Survey Graphic, 1939 July, August, November, December.
Box 3 Folder 4
Survey Graphic, 1940 January, March, April, October-December.
Box 3 Folder 5
Survey Graphic, 1941 February-May.
Box 3 Folder 6
Survey Graphic, 1941 June, November.
Box 3 Folder 7
Survey Graphic, 1942 January-March, June.
Box 3 Folder 8
Survey Graphic, 1943 June, July, September-December.
Box 3 Folder 9
Survey Graphic, 1944 January-March, June, October, November.
Box 3 Folder 10
Survey Graphic, 1947 January, March, May-October, December.
Box 3 Folder 11
Survey Graphic, 1948 January-June.
Box 3 Folder 12
Survey Graphic, 1948 July-December.
Box 3 Folder 13
Survey Midmonthly, 1939 June, August, September; 1940 March-May, July-August, October, November.
Box 3 Folder 14
Survey Midmonthly, 1941 March-September.
Box 3 Folder 15
Survey Midmonthly, 1942 January, February; 1943 December.
Box 3 Folder 16
Survey Midmonthly, 1944 January-April, June-July; 1945 January-March.
Box 3 Folder 17
Survey Midmonthly, 1946 April-October.
Box 3 Folder 18
Survey Midmonthly, 1947 January-September.
Box 3 Folder 19
Survey Midmonthly, 1948 February, March, September-December.
Box 3 Folder 20
Survey Midmonthly, 1949 January-May, November, December.
Box 3 Folder 21
Women's Day, 1950 June.
Box 3 Folder 22
Woman's World, 1935 September; 1936 February; 1938 October.
Box 13 Folder 5

Aswell, Mary Louise, editor: It's a Woman's World: Stories from Harper's Bazaar, 1944.
Box 14
Black, Alexander: Miss America, 1898.
Box 14
Davison, Alvin: Health Lessons: Book One, 1910.
Box 14
Griffith, Beatrice: American Me, 1948.
Box 14
Griffith, Beatrice: American Me: Selections from the Award Winning Book, 1954.
Box 14
Kauffman, Reginald Wright: The House of Bondage, 1910.
Box 14
Lait, Jack and Mortimer, Lee: New York: Confidential, 1948.
Box 14
Los Angeles: A Guide to the City and Its Environs, 1941.
Box 14
Smith, Matthew Hale: Sunshine and Shadow in New York, 1868.
Box 14
Stegner, Wallace: One Nation, 1945.
Box 14
Walton, Frank L.: Thread of Victory, 1945.
Box 14

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