Call Number:

Ms. Codex 2228

Repository:

University of Pennsylvania: Kislak Center for Special Collections, Rare Books and Manuscripts

Extent:

1 volume(s)

Language:

English

Preferred Citation:

Dyes and dyeing recipe book, circa 1850, Ms. Codex 2228, Kislak Center for Special Collections, Rare Books and Manuscripts, University of Pennsylvania

Date:

circa 1850

Form:

Textiles and Codices (bound manuscripts)

Abstract:

This recipe book was written by an unidentified individual, likely in England around 1850 and contains numerous recipes for color dyes and methods for dyeing textiles. In addition to the recipes, there are swatches of fabric and a small selection of medicinal, household, and culinary recipes.

Nothing is known about the creator of this volume.

Before the discovery of synthetic dyes in 1856 by William Perkin, all dyes were derived from plants, invertebrates, and minerals. These dyes, called natural dyes, are what make up the recipes in this volume. By the 1870s, commercial dyeing with natural dyes had been almost entirely replaced by synthetic dyes.

Parnell's dyes and techniques, which are cited frequently in this volume, likely come from Edward A. Parnell and his 1846 work, "A practical treatise on dyeing and calico-printing: including the latest inventions and improvements : also a description of the origin, manufacture, uses, and chemical properties of the various ..."

Discharge printing is a method of applying a color-destroying agent to a dyed fabric to produce a design of a light pattern on a dark background.

Sources:

"Discharge Printing." Encyclopædia Britannica, www.britannica.com/technology/discharge-printing. Accessed 14 Oct. 2024.

"Parnell, Edward A. (Edward Andrew)." LC Linked Data Service: Authorities and Vocabularies, Library of Congress, id.loc.gov/authorities/names/n91018638. Accessed 14 Oct. 2024. "A Practical Treatise on Dyeing and Calico-Printing: Including the Latest Inventions and Improvements : Also a Description of the Origin, Manufacture, Uses, and Chemical Properties of the Various ..." Cornell University Library. digital.library.cornell.edu/catalog/hearth4400488. Accessed 14 Oct. 2024.

This recipe book was written by an unidentified individual, likely in England around 1850 and contains numerous recipes for color dyes and methods for dyeing textiles. In addition to the recipes, there are swatches of fabric and a smaller selection of medicinal, household, and culinary recipes.

The volume is bound in full leather. The pagination of this volume is creator-supplied, but there are several pages missing (p. 95-98). It appears that some text is missing with these pages.

Most of the volume contains recipes and methods for dyes and dyeing (p. 1-155), but the orientation of the writing flips for the last portion which includes 34 medicinal, household, and culinary recipes (p. 156-169). There are several cotton and silk dyed fabric swatches laid and pasted into the volume (p. i-iii, 146, 154-155).

The recipes for dying include Mr. McIntyre's receipt, new method of bleaching cotton (p. 6); M. de Lain's colors, scouring, and bleaching (p. 50-75); Parnell's steam colors (p. 76-81), madder resist style (p. 90-93), indigo resist style (p. 94, 100), catechn[sic] resist style (101), discharge style (p. 102-116), China blue style (p. 117-122), steam color cotton (p. 123-126), and preparation mordant; and silk dyeing recipes and techniques (p. 143-155).

Examples of the "genuine receipts" at the end of the volume include weak eyes (p. 167) and ginger beer (p. 168) in addition to numerous preparations for medicinal plants, such as clivers, which are described as being, "good for obstruction and diseases of the urinary organ" (p. 157).